Embracing the Basqueness

It’s been a relatively quiet summer. Since we returned from Scotland, we’ve been home for 3 months straight (except for our 2-night escape to Bilbao for the Blues Festival). That’s unusual for us. And it certainly hasn’t happened in quite some time considering our two extra-long trips in 2022/23 and 2023/24. In fact, we realized that we haven’t been in San Sebastian for two winters now! We haven’t had a stream of visitors to entertain this year, so we’ve enjoyed the routine, including paddle boarding when the weather cooperated, and now September has brought opportunities for basking in the Basqueness of late summer.

San Sebastian hosts the premier rowing regatta (since 1879) and each year we learn more about the teams and event history. The boats used in these competitions are based on whaling and fishing boats – a pillar of the maritime focused economy of the recent past. These are not the thin, sleek sculls used in collegiate or Olympic rowing; they are built for the ocean. There are 13 rowers and a coxswain. This year I watched the men’s qualification round where more than 20 boats raced the 3 nautical miles for the 8 spots in the weekends’ regattas. It was amazing to see them all starting and finishing in La Concha Bay.

We watched the races on television, where you can see better the work involved and the entire route. The defending champions in both the men’s and women’s races easily won again.

A friend organized an American-style potluck luncheon at another friend’s Basque “sociedad” (a membership based gastronomic club). This particular group is an association of engineers. Sociedads offer large kitchens and dining rooms to host communal meals. Few people have the space here to host such events at home, plus these locations have professional level kitchens. We met several new people, mostly locals, and enjoyed a great feast. The oldest sociedad in the city dates to 1870 (even before the regattas began!).

This week we hiked with friends from Zarautz to Getaria, but this time rather than taking the coastal path along the water, we hiked over and through the hills separating the cities. We started on the beach while the skies were still grey from the morning rain.

The route goes through txaikoli vineyards (the local white wine varietal) and is incredibly scenic.

Getaria, a small fishing village (pop.2870), is known for its fabulous fish restaurants. We tried a new one that was right on the beach. The fish truly is fresh and goes well with a bottle of txaikoli!

We returned via the coastal route. Although we usually don’t walk both ways, having eaten and drank too much, since the sun had come out, we decided we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to enjoy it.

Basque traditions and the beautiful landscape and culinary opportunities never get old.

This year we are missing the San Sebastian International Film Festival for the first time in 7 years. A small part of us is sorry to break the streak, but mostly we’re happy to skip the amount of time we invest each year and the frustrations that the ticket purchase process inevitably involves. I’m sure we’ll return to the festival next year refreshed from the year off.

We are looking forward to welcoming dear friends this week and to eating, drinking and being merry with them in our favorite places. Then we’re off to DC, Boston, Maine and New Hampshire.

Hasta pronto,

Shana & Jeff

Semana Grande

As always, the week of August that includes the 15th is Semana Grande here in San Sebastian. That means nightly fireworks, amusement-park rides (not that we partake), lots of musical options, and huge numbers of tourists both local and far flung.

This was our second Semana Grande in our current apartment, and we took full advantage of our location to not go out to see fireworks since we have such a good view from our balcony. We even invited friends over a couple of nights to watch with us.

We went out several evenings to see music at the city's main kiosk (bandstand) near the old city performed by various Spanish city orchestras. 

For the first time, this year we did something unusual for us: we went to see the late-night concert that starts after the fireworks (at 11:45 pm) at the far end of Zurriola beach. It took a confluence of events to keep us out until almost 2 am: (1) the concert was a Tina Turner tribute band called Totally Tina, which meant that the music was definitely up our alley; (2) the next day was the holiday (dia de la Asuncion, celebrating when Mary ascended to heaven), which meant the gym was closed; and (3) our friend Angela lives overlooking the site of the concert so we had a great view without fighting the crowds. It was really fun.

Although the weather was not great most of the week -- overcast and humid -- Thursday was nice and Shana managed to drag herself out for a hike on Mount Urgull with our friend Connie, while I recovered from our unusual late night.

Overall, it was a very fun Semana Grande, but we are definitely looking forward to the reduction of the crowds in San Sebastian as we head from summer into fall.

Hasta pronto,

Jeff and Shana

The Paris Olympics . . . in Bordeaux

We knew we had no interest in going to the Olympics in Paris. The police state created by the high level of security, large crowds, and price gouging for lodging, tickets, and everything else was unappealing on all levels. But, once I learned that certain events were being held outside of Paris, I was keen on seeing if anything might be enticing enough to cross into France. It turned out that Bordeaux, only 2.5 hours by train from the border, was hosting soccer games and tickets would not be cost prohibitive.

I looked for a fellow soccer or Olympic enthusiast, as Jeff was not game to join me, and came up empty. I thought about going alone but was hesitant, especially when the selected game – Spain vs. Brazil (women, July 31) – would be meaningless for the Spanish team who won their first two games and would go on to the knock-out round regardless of the result. And then we heard from an unexpected visitor.

My dear friend Lauren’s son Jacob decided to pass through San Sebastian at just the right time, with Paris as his next destination. He arrived from Madrid by train on the 30th to spend the night, and I took him on a whirlwind city tour. We then booked game and train tickets, plus lodging in Bordeaux for the night. And the next morning, we were on our way!

Bordeaux was a tranquil Olympic host -- perfect for us last-minute fans. The city was dressed for the occasion and had plenty of friendly volunteers but wasn’t overcrowded. We took the city tram from the train station to drop our stuff, had enough time to stop in the city center at the Olympic Welcome Center and pick up a pin and a pen, grabbed a bite, and then took a bus to the stadium. It was hot in Bordeaux, but thankfully inside the stadium there was a nice breeze, and our seats were in the shade. The stadium was not even half full. There were plenty of fans for both teams decked out in flags, jerseys, etc.

The game was an odd one with lots of injury time. The Brazilian goalie was treated multiple times, and the team must not have much confidence in the substitute because the starter stayed in. A Brazilian player got a red card, allowing Spain to play with an extra player for the entire second half, but Brazil hung in despite the disadvantage. Ultimately Spain won 2-0. Due to the limited size of the Olympic tournament, Brazil went on to the next round, beat France in the quarterfinals and played Spain again in the semi-final, where it got its revenge with a 4-2 victory. Today Brazil will play the US for the gold medal. Spain lost in the bronze medal match to Germany, which made for a disappointing tournament for the reigning Women’s World Cup champions.

Jacob and I had a good time getting to know each other better and taking it all in. And now I can say I’ve been to the Olympics!

Here’s a few photo highlights from Jacob’s visit:

Au revoir,

Shana

Enjoying the Blues in Bilbao

 

The Bilbao Blues Festival is turning into a favorite annual summer event. It gives us the chance to spend a couple of nights in Bilbao, listen to live music outside for free, stop in at the Guggenheim Museum, and try new restaurants. This year was enjoyable and confirmed we’ll go back again.

Although the music this year was not as good as in the past, the people (and dog) watching is always entertaining. Our favorite artist was D.K. Harrell, an emerging blues singer and guitarist from Louisiana. His high energy and personality were on full display. We always wonder how much the locals understand when American musicians tell stories in English, especially ones that are cultural. But they certainly recognize great music and artistry.

As usual, we ate well. We had an amazing late Spanish lunch at Al Margen. The tasting menu was creative and the wine pairings distinctive. When we read in May that Bilbao had a pizza restaurant named to the Top 50 Pizzas in Europe list (and top 100 in the world), we knew we had to eat at Demaio. They serve two types of pizza: Napoletana Contemporanea and Teglia Romana. Of course, we tried both. Both were fantastic, but the traditional Neapolitan still rules. We were so full and happy we couldn’t go back to listen to the late Blues performance.

Finally, we delighted in the Yoshitomo Nara exhibition at the Guggenheim. Nara is a Japanese artist with a unique style. His works are highly imaginative, and he isn’t shy with his humanistic messaging. Some of the works displayed were done on leftover cardboard boxes, which was oddly appealing. Here are a few of the works we liked the most.

The last photo was part of the museum's Pop Art exhibit -- a giant shuttlecock sculpture. I only take photos of art to share with you, loyal readers. And this year we didn’t feel it necessary to repeat photos of our view of the festival stage from our vantage point across the river, which we find better than standing in the throngs of people in front of the stage.

Happy summer,

Shana & Jeff

Seven Years in San Sebastian

Today, July 25, marks seven years since we arrived in San Sebastian in 2017. (It is also a holiday here, Dia Santiago Apostal (James the Apostle’s Day), the patron saint of Spain. There are so many saint’s holidays, it is hard to keep track.) We don’t celebrate this anniversary of sorts, but it is an opportunity to reminisce about our arrival and how much has changed and what we’ve learned since then.

After seven years, we are comfortable living our lives outside our apartment in Spanish. Making phones calls can still be frustrating, but answering questions for strangers on the street is a pleasure. Considering the topsy turvy world we live in, sometimes I sum up our life here as follows: now we can read and discuss all the bad news in two languages! Despite living here, we still are very clued in on what’s going on in the US, especially with the upcoming election.

We have witnessed a lot of change in San Sebastian. First and foremost, we hear a lot more English than we did early on. The level of tourism has gotten crazy. While you may see “Tourists Go Home” in the graffiti, we have not seen any anti-tourism protests or actions (yet). Summer is especially difficult, and we adapt our day-to-day routines accordingly to avoid the most congested areas. San Sebastian’s housing market has been impacted significantly by the tourism trend like in many other places with prices rising on full-time rentals as more units are offered only on a seasonal basis (generally September to May/June to university student to then grab the massive profits to be had in July and August).

Overall, prices have increased but life is still more affordable by a lot than if we lived in Seattle or Los Angeles. The impact on locals is visible and audible – especially in the grocery store when people gasp at the price of olive oil.

We appreciate that the style of living here has not changed much. Spaniards are out late enjoying friendship and good food. There are still too many smokers. Displays of Basque pride are ever-present. And there are lots of free cultural events.

This week is Jazzaldia, San Sebastian’s summer jazz festival, and this weekend we are off to the Bilbao Blues Festival now in its third year. And then Semana Grande will arrive in August.

Happy summer,

Shana & Jeff

Stirling Castle

We have finally made it around Scotland to our final stop, Stirling Castle. This last of the many castles we visited gets its own post because of how central it was to Scottish history due to its strategic position between Edinburgh and Glasgow, and where the Highlands meet the Lowlands.

Basically, every famous Scottish ruler passed through here, and from the castle, you can see the sites of three major battles: the Battle of Stirling Bridge (1297) where William Wallace (played by Mel Gibson in Braveheart, although the "history" in the movie is completely wrong) surprisingly defeated the British army; the Battle of Falkirk (1298) where England got its revenge defeating Wallace, and the Battle of Bannockburn (1314) where Robert the Bruce (statue in the photo on the bottom left) finally kicked the English out of Scotland (at least for a few centuries). As you can see, the castle had a high defensive vantage point that offers spectacular views.

In addition, unlike so many of the other castles we visited, Stirling is in very good shape, and it is very large due mostly to the fact that it was the primary residence of the Stuart monarchs during the 16th century.

Two of the more impressive places you can visit in the castle are the Great Hall, which is the largest banquet space ever built in Scotland, and would host giant parties attended by monarchs from all over Europe, but was also where the Stuart Kings would hold court. Shana even got to experience what that might have been like.

The guy in the funny costume in the photo on the right was one of a number of actors in the Royal Apartments who were telling stories about what life in the castle might have been like in the mid-16th century when King James V and Queen Mary of Guise lived here. Another room has recreations of the Stirling Heads (some of the originals are on display elsewhere in the museum): portrait medallions of James V's relatives tracing his royal lineage and connecting it to Ancient Rome. These portraits, which covered the ceiling of one of the King's audience chambers, were thought to be designed to demonstrate James V's power and right to rule. Many other decorative elements also spoke to power and standing.

Although we visited Stirling Castle at the end of our trip, it would be a good place to start as it contains an extensive exhibit on Scottish history including its rulers, which we had to cobble together over time. It might have been nice to have the whole story up front.

In any event, we very much enjoyed Scotland, and would recommend it, especially for those who are into whiskey or golf. Despite the fact that neither are high are our list, the beauty of Scotland and its friendly people more than justified the trip.

We're back to our routine here in San Sebastian, where we'll be all summer. Unlike last summer, we are not expecting any visitors until September. We're looking forward to the city's Jazzfest (Jazzaldia),  Bilbao's Blues Festival, and lots of stand-up paddleboarding in the meantime.

Hasta pronto,

Jeff and Shana

St. Andrews & The Old Course

For such a small place, historic St. Andrews packs a big punch. Between the university, its religious history, and its famous golf course, we did a lot during our visit. We stayed in Dundee, the “big city” about 30 minutes away (pop. 150,000), because lodging prices in St. Andrews (pop. 18,000) were astronomically higher. We figured out why when we arrived: we were there during graduation festivities. In addition, the iconic golf course was packed. Yet somehow, we got lucky and found an awesome, free parking spot.

St. Andrews sits on the east coast of Scotland. It is compact and walkable. We ambled through the classical university buildings, learning about its many quirky student traditions. Established in 1411, university students still wear red robes on numerous occasions. We saw one student in her robe giving a tour and a ton of graduates in their special attire. Sally’s Quad was full of students and families (with dogs) celebrating.

The ruins of St. Andrews Cathedral are a testament to the impact of Scotland’s Reformation. Built in 1160, between the 14th and 16th centuries the cathedral was the center of Scottish religious life, and as home to the relics of Apostle Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland, it was a pilgrimage site. The cathedral was left to rot as religious life transformed.

Not far from the cathedral sit the ruins of St. Andrews Castle, another casualty of the Reformation. Built by the bishop in the late 12th century, the castle saw its share of religious violence as Scotland changed. 

Oddly, the most interesting place of all was the golf course. (A good place to escape the bloody history!) St. Andrews is described as the Mecca of golf. The first record of the game being played there is 1553. We took a walking tour of the Old Course and were thoroughly entertained and edified. While we have watched various majors through the years, we are not golfers. Still, despite our lack of passion for the game, the tour was truly stupendous.

St. Andrews is public and has multiple courses. The original course, the Old Course, is tradition personified. Except for when it hosts the Open Championship every five years (Americans know it as the British Open), the course is closed on Sundays and the public is welcome to picnic on or stroll the grounds (but stay off the greens). (The other courses can be played on Sundays.)

The course sits on the coast, where you can see the famous beach used in the opening scene of Chariots of Fire. Golf courses have 18 holes to this day because that’s how many fit at the Old Course site. Despite its public status, it is pricey to play a round and you must be lucky through a lottery to get a tee time.  The 1st and 18th holes sit parallel to each other with no boundary in between, so technically, the two holes share territory, with the public road bordering them. You definitely need a caddie to help navigate and get the most out of the experience. (Yes, that’s the actual Caddie Shack above.)

You can see in the above photos how the golfers teeing off at the 1^st and 18^th can see each other in the distance.

Here’s the famous bridge on the 18th hole. While we could have been in a photo, we didn’t play the course, so you get golfers who did.

That bridge can be seen from the road, where Jeff is standing out-of-bounds. It’s probably best to avoid parking there. The shot of the 18th green is taken from the same road, so it was easy to watch the action with the famous beach in the background.

I never thought walking around a golf course would be so enjoyable (either as a golfer or as a tourist), but it was, and I know I’m not doing it justice. If you are a golfer, you must consider a trip to this legendary place. You won’t be alone though. We couldn’t believe the number of golf bags being checked at Edinburgh airport as we were departing.

Fore!

Shana & Jeff