Today, July 25, marks seven years since we arrived in San Sebastian in 2017. (It is also a holiday here, Dia Santiago Apostal (James the Apostle’s Day), the patron saint of Spain. There are so many saint’s holidays, it is hard to keep track.) We don’t celebrate this anniversary of sorts, but it is an opportunity to reminisce about our arrival and how much has changed and what we’ve learned since then.
After seven years, we are comfortable living our lives outside our apartment in Spanish. Making phones calls can still be frustrating, but answering questions for strangers on the street is a pleasure. Considering the topsy turvy world we live in, sometimes I sum up our life here as follows: now we can read and discuss all the bad news in two languages! Despite living here, we still are very clued in on what’s going on in the US, especially with the upcoming election.
We have witnessed a lot of change in San Sebastian. First and foremost, we hear a lot more English than we did early on. The level of tourism has gotten crazy. While you may see “Tourists Go Home” in the graffiti, we have not seen any anti-tourism protests or actions (yet). Summer is especially difficult, and we adapt our day-to-day routines accordingly to avoid the most congested areas. San Sebastian’s housing market has been impacted significantly by the tourism trend like in many other places with prices rising on full-time rentals as more units are offered only on a seasonal basis (generally September to May/June to university student to then grab the massive profits to be had in July and August).
Overall, prices have increased but life is still more affordable by a lot than if we lived in Seattle or Los Angeles. The impact on locals is visible and audible – especially in the grocery store when people gasp at the price of olive oil.
We appreciate that the style of living here has not changed much. Spaniards are out late enjoying friendship and good food. There are still too many smokers. Displays of Basque pride are ever-present. And there are lots of free cultural events.
This week is Jazzaldia, San Sebastian’s summer jazz festival, and this weekend we are off to the Bilbao Blues Festival now in its third year. And then Semana Grande will arrive in August.
Happy summer,
Shana & Jeff
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