Wednesday, October 21, 2026

Southeastern France: Toulouse & Albi


We’re just back from an 11-night trip to Southeastern France that encapsulated why October travel is the best, especially in places that are overrun in summer. We had fabulous early fall weather and hardly any crowds. While our trip started with a train cancellation that delayed our arrival in Toulouse by 4 hours, and then a dinner reservation cancellation, we rolled with it – we’ve certainly had worse delays and there’s always another restaurant.

Toulouse is the 4th largest city in France (by population), but it doesn’t feel too big. In our limited time there, we found it charming and spirited – it felt young based on the people we saw. It is known as the “Pink City,” based on how its many pink brick buildings look in the light.

The Capitole (city hall) dominates the main square. We saw several couples waiting to be or just married exiting as we passed by one morning. The Pont Neuf bridge, finished in 1632, includes openings – intended to resemble a lion’s mane and face – that allow flood waters to pass safely through the structure. The large domed building across the river is a hospital and has been the location of a hospital since 1197.

We peeked into the Saint Etienne Cathedral (or Toulouse Cathedral), tracing its origins back to the 3rd century. Having been rebuilt and modified over time, it is a mix of styles, including Romanesque and Raymondine Gothic.

Our favorite spot in Toulouse was the Marche Victor Hugo (market) where we found the most fabulous bakery, La Grange des Pains. I wished we were staying long enough to try every type of bread on display.

Many of our photos in Toulouse were taken at night as we spent very little time in the city, taking a day trip to nearby Albi by train.

Albi has two worthwhile sights that did not disappoint: the Saint Cecile Cathedral and the Toulouse Lautrec Museum (housed in the former archbishop’s fortified home, Palais de la Berbie).

The cathedral’s entrance and interior are both grand. The Last Judgment painting at the front dates back to 1474.

Toulouse Lautrec’s family donated his works to his birth city, and it was interesting to see how his art developed from his teen years until his death at age 37. Most notable was his use of cardboard, often intended as a first version material before working on canvas. The historic building was as interesting as the art inside. The gardens and riverside setting were especially beautiful on the sunny day we enjoyed.

Toulouse and Albi were a great introduction to the Languedoc-Rousillon region.

Au revoir,

Shana & Jeff