Vino Con Vino: Rabat

Rabat, which has been Moroccco's capital since 1912, was significantly less chaotic than the other cities we visited. In fact, with its wide streets, light-rail system, and slightly less-aggressive drivers, Rabat seems a bit like a European city. Of course, this makes sense considering the French chose it as the capital during their "protectorate."

We enjoyed a visit to the Mohammed VI Museum of Modern & Contemporary Art, which provided an introduction to Moroccan art and artists, including a bit of history of Moroccan art through the 20th century.

Our visit to Chellah Castle was definitely the highlight of our time in Rabat. Chellah is very interesting because it contains ruins from two different societies. Part of the site is the ruins of a Roman colony known as Sala Colonia, which dates from 40 C.E.

After the fall of the Roman Empire, Sala fell into ruin, and was abandoned until the 10th century. After that it was used by a number of dynasties, but it was the Maranid Dynasty, beginning in the late 13th century, that turned it into a royal necropolis, the ruins of which are still present alongside the Roman ruins. Among other things, there are the remains of public baths and a mosque, which has been repurposed by a large number of storks for their nests.

A photo of the 13th century minaret with the Mohammed VI tower in the background, which is the largest building in Morocco (completed in 2026), juxtaposes ancient and modern Morocco.

Another example of this contrast can be found at the site of the Hassan Tower and the Mausoleum of King Mohammed V. The Hassan Tower is the minaret of a mosque constructed at the end of the 12th cenutry, but that was never finished. It was intended to be the tallest in the world, but when the Caliph that began its construction died in 1199, the project was abandoned. More than seven centuries later, in 1961, construction of the Mausoleum began adjacent to the site of the unfinished centuries-old mosque.

Rabat has a couple of old Medina areas, but like the rest of the city, they seem much less chaotic than the Medinas in other Moroccan cities. And, since Rabat is on the Atlantic, one of the old Medina's has excellent views.