We spent five days in Budapest and easily could have spent more time soaking up the history and the atmosphere. While Hungarians are distinct ethnically and linguistically (and in many other ways to be sure), this area of Europe is a true melting pot of cultures. In fact, Hungary recognizes 13 different minorities and ensures they have representation in Parliament.
Overall, we found Hungary to be a more expensive tourist experience than most European cities. Entry fees are notably higher than in other places. We judge everything based on the ticket price for the Louvre, arguably one of the best museums in the world. The fee was around 15 or 16€ back in 2018; it is now 22€. While it is subsidized heavily by the French government, we figure it is not a bad standard to evaluate the value you get for your tourist dollar. Imagine our shock to learn that it costs over $30 to visit the Hungarian Parliament (for 45 minutes) and $35 to visit the Dohany (Great) Synagogue. We don’t recall seeing such high fees in other places, although inflation is making its impact everywhere. (I just checked, and the Prado is up to 30€.) It is interesting that Paris’s sights are cheaper.
We took an evening cruise on the Danube. Our ride started before “sunset,” and it was fabulous to see the contrast as the lights came on. Here is the progression:
It was a very cold night, but it was worth it to go to the top of the boat to take the nighttime photos.
Parliament is the most iconic building in the city, and we saw it from many angles. Despite the cost, we were glad we did the tour, which was well-organized and highly informative. The interior is elegant and beautifully decorated. The grand entry hall is only used for the opening of each parliamentary session and special events. The meeting room is decorated with many historical symbols.
Just down the river from Parliament is the Shoes on the Danube monument memorializing the Jews who were killed by the Hungarian Arrow Cross militiamen between 1944 and 1945. The victims were shot at point blank range after removing their belongings, including their shoes, which the soldiers could then profit from. It is a moving display.
We explored both the Buda and Pest sides of the city, which were historically separate cities on either side of the Danube, and enjoyed the different neighborhoods. We had plans to visit the Fine Arts Museum, but found it unexpectedly closed for the morning due to some special circumstance. Rolling with the punches, we took an architectural stroll of the adjacent City Park’s many museum buildings, starting at Heroes’ Square, created in 1896 to mark the 1000-year anniversary of the country. It features statues of the leaders of the Magyar tribes who founded Hungary, along with famous kings and historical figures.
Nearby sits Vajdahunyad Castle, modeled on the original castle located in Transylvania, which was once part of the Hungarian Crown. There is quite a history between Hungary and Romania involving the region. Perhaps we’ll learn more when we get there on a future trip.
Finally, the park includes the Museum of Ethnography, which is also an architectural gem. It rises out of the park like a two-sided wave (only one side seen in the first photo) and has a “green” roof garden, which we climbed.
From these terrific Pest sights, we took the metro and a tram over to the Buda side, where we had a lunch reservation. We explored the Castle Hill neighborhood, including the famed Fisherman’s Bastion, a 19th century fortress, and the13th century Matthias Church (Church of Our Lady of Buda Castle).
Hungary is predominantly Catholic, a legacy left by the first king Saint Steven who spread the religion in the late 10th/early 11th centuries by establishing a church in every 10th village. But other religions played a role as well. We did a tour of the former Jewish Quarter in Pest, where there are several synagogues. The Dohany Street Synagogue, finished in 1859, sat next to the house where Theodore Herzl was born the next year. The back of the building includes a Holocaust memorial built with the support of actor Tony Curtis, the son of a Hungarian Jew.
The Rumbach Street Synagogue was finished in 1873 and was renovated and reopened in 2021. Both synagogues became a part of the Pest Ghetto during WWII. On the Buda side we visited the Tomb of Gul Baba, a 16th century Ottoman ruler. Although this site is a national monument, it was almost empty. We noticed that Hungry's Ottoman period gets short shrift in the country's history, but note that both synagogues (photos above and below) have obvious Moorish architectural influences.
Budapest is a historical, ethnic, and religious melting pot with a rich and complex story to tell. Our exploration was educational and entertaining. From Budapest we headed east to visit two of Hungary’s many wine regions, which was a whole different type of education.
More to come soon,
Shana & Jeff
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