Semana Grande

As always, the week of August that includes the 15th is Semana Grande here in San Sebastian. That means nightly fireworks, amusement-park rides (not that we partake), lots of musical options, and huge numbers of tourists both local and far flung.

This was our second Semana Grande in our current apartment, and we took full advantage of our location to not go out to see fireworks since we have such a good view from our balcony. We even invited friends over a couple of nights to watch with us.

We went out several evenings to see music at the city's main kiosk (bandstand) near the old city performed by various Spanish city orchestras. 

For the first time, this year we did something unusual for us: we went to see the late-night concert that starts after the fireworks (at 11:45 pm) at the far end of Zurriola beach. It took a confluence of events to keep us out until almost 2 am: (1) the concert was a Tina Turner tribute band called Totally Tina, which meant that the music was definitely up our alley; (2) the next day was the holiday (dia de la Asuncion, celebrating when Mary ascended to heaven), which meant the gym was closed; and (3) our friend Angela lives overlooking the site of the concert so we had a great view without fighting the crowds. It was really fun.

Although the weather was not great most of the week -- overcast and humid -- Thursday was nice and Shana managed to drag herself out for a hike on Mount Urgull with our friend Connie, while I recovered from our unusual late night.

Overall, it was a very fun Semana Grande, but we are definitely looking forward to the reduction of the crowds in San Sebastian as we head from summer into fall.

Hasta pronto,

Jeff and Shana

The Paris Olympics . . . in Bordeaux

We knew we had no interest in going to the Olympics in Paris. The police state created by the high level of security, large crowds, and price gouging for lodging, tickets, and everything else was unappealing on all levels. But, once I learned that certain events were being held outside of Paris, I was keen on seeing if anything might be enticing enough to cross into France. It turned out that Bordeaux, only 2.5 hours by train from the border, was hosting soccer games and tickets would not be cost prohibitive.

I looked for a fellow soccer or Olympic enthusiast, as Jeff was not game to join me, and came up empty. I thought about going alone but was hesitant, especially when the selected game – Spain vs. Brazil (women, July 31) – would be meaningless for the Spanish team who won their first two games and would go on to the knock-out round regardless of the result. And then we heard from an unexpected visitor.

My dear friend Lauren’s son Jacob decided to pass through San Sebastian at just the right time, with Paris as his next destination. He arrived from Madrid by train on the 30th to spend the night, and I took him on a whirlwind city tour. We then booked game and train tickets, plus lodging in Bordeaux for the night. And the next morning, we were on our way!

Bordeaux was a tranquil Olympic host -- perfect for us last-minute fans. The city was dressed for the occasion and had plenty of friendly volunteers but wasn’t overcrowded. We took the city tram from the train station to drop our stuff, had enough time to stop in the city center at the Olympic Welcome Center and pick up a pin and a pen, grabbed a bite, and then took a bus to the stadium. It was hot in Bordeaux, but thankfully inside the stadium there was a nice breeze, and our seats were in the shade. The stadium was not even half full. There were plenty of fans for both teams decked out in flags, jerseys, etc.

The game was an odd one with lots of injury time. The Brazilian goalie was treated multiple times, and the team must not have much confidence in the substitute because the starter stayed in. A Brazilian player got a red card, allowing Spain to play with an extra player for the entire second half, but Brazil hung in despite the disadvantage. Ultimately Spain won 2-0. Due to the limited size of the Olympic tournament, Brazil went on to the next round, beat France in the quarterfinals and played Spain again in the semi-final, where it got its revenge with a 4-2 victory. Today Brazil will play the US for the gold medal. Spain lost in the bronze medal match to Germany, which made for a disappointing tournament for the reigning Women’s World Cup champions.

Jacob and I had a good time getting to know each other better and taking it all in. And now I can say I’ve been to the Olympics!

Here’s a few photo highlights from Jacob’s visit:

Au revoir,

Shana

Enjoying the Blues in Bilbao

 

The Bilbao Blues Festival is turning into a favorite annual summer event. It gives us the chance to spend a couple of nights in Bilbao, listen to live music outside for free, stop in at the Guggenheim Museum, and try new restaurants. This year was enjoyable and confirmed we’ll go back again.

Although the music this year was not as good as in the past, the people (and dog) watching is always entertaining. Our favorite artist was D.K. Harrell, an emerging blues singer and guitarist from Louisiana. His high energy and personality were on full display. We always wonder how much the locals understand when American musicians tell stories in English, especially ones that are cultural. But they certainly recognize great music and artistry.

As usual, we ate well. We had an amazing late Spanish lunch at Al Margen. The tasting menu was creative and the wine pairings distinctive. When we read in May that Bilbao had a pizza restaurant named to the Top 50 Pizzas in Europe list (and top 100 in the world), we knew we had to eat at Demaio. They serve two types of pizza: Napoletana Contemporanea and Teglia Romana. Of course, we tried both. Both were fantastic, but the traditional Neapolitan still rules. We were so full and happy we couldn’t go back to listen to the late Blues performance.

Finally, we delighted in the Yoshitomo Nara exhibition at the Guggenheim. Nara is a Japanese artist with a unique style. His works are highly imaginative, and he isn’t shy with his humanistic messaging. Some of the works displayed were done on leftover cardboard boxes, which was oddly appealing. Here are a few of the works we liked the most.

The last photo was part of the museum's Pop Art exhibit -- a giant shuttlecock sculpture. I only take photos of art to share with you, loyal readers. And this year we didn’t feel it necessary to repeat photos of our view of the festival stage from our vantage point across the river, which we find better than standing in the throngs of people in front of the stage.

Happy summer,

Shana & Jeff