Wednesday, August 30, 2023

August Musings

 

How is August almost over? The end of August means we’ve been back in Spain for six months. We’ve got a rhythm, a routine, new friends, and summer traditions to keep us busy. We are settled into and  satisfied with our new place, especially after experiencing our 7th (!) Semana Grande.

A main highlight of summer in San Sebastian is Semana Grande, with fireworks every night, numerous concerts (big and small) throughout the city, traditional Basque events, among many other fun happenings. There’s always a special energy and vibe. We thought we would be able to see the fireworks from our balcony since we our on the 5th floor, but had no idea that the view would be spectacular:


Having this view meant we didn’t have to go out to see the fireworks, but could watch (or not) and then head to sleep directly after. Jeff confirmed that you cannot sleep through them – it’s just too darn loud.

In addition, we could enjoy the roving bands that entertain throughout the city. The pedestrian street below us with several cafes, bars, and restaurants is a popular zone. So we had music too.

I danced with that same band during our first Semana Grande in 2017.

We especially enjoy traditional Basque activities. One afternoon we watched dancing at the central kiosk. The number of participants was incredible. We learned the hora and other Israeli dances as children; the locals learned their dances and truly love this communal act.

We also went to see a Bertsolari performance. Bertsolaris are individuals who improvise verse and sing their compositions in Basque. It is done competitively. This year I invited my friend Maje to join us, so she could translate. Maje was a wealth of information, explaining how the Bertsolaris were always men in the past and the type of rhythms that are required. The topics we saw ranged from disability awareness to retail sales. It takes real talent and a lot of work to be a Bertsolari. You can check it out on YouTube if you’re curious.

This year we had the opportunity to host friends of friends who visited during all the excitement. We really enjoyed meeting Amanda, Tom, Amelia, and Helena and showing them around. Next month we’ll have more “friend of friend” visitors.

We visited the city’s San Telmo Museum this past weekend for two special exhibits. The first was focused on vintage summer travel posters, which we enjoyed more than we thought we would. After living here for six years, we could relate to the locale, cultural events, and lifestyle that was being advertised – something a tourist would not feel.

The second exhibit was about Joaquin Sorolla’s special relationship with San Sebastian. He visited many times over the years – the exhibition was titled “Travel to Paint” – and like the posters, his paintings captured the essence of the city.

The second poster photo features our next favorite event – the San Sebastian International Film Festival, which arrives the last week of September.  

Hasta pronto,

Shana & Jeff

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