Our next stop in central Vietnam was Hue. Because we enjoy traveling by train, we wanted to take a train while here. The best opportunity to do so was between Da Nang and Hue, where the train passes through the Hai Van pass – a scenic mountain/coastal route known for its beauty. We returned to Da Nang by car from Hoi An to board the mid-day train for the 2.5-hour trip.
Jeff had read good things about the trains in Vietnam but as soon as we boarded we knew we may have erred. The train was old and dingy, the windows dirty and there was food trash on the floor. To the extent we thought Spaniards behaved badly on trains, the Vietnamese took it to another level letting their kids run wild screaming and climbing on seats, while they talked loudly on their phones or watched videos without headphones. The scenery did make up for the chaos, so the trip wasn’t entirely unpleasant. (No photos due to sitting on the wrong side of the train, the locals blocking most of the view, and dirty windows.)
Hue served as the imperial capital during the reign of the Nguyen dynasty (1802-1945). We spent one day wandering through the Citadel area. Sitting at the center is the Imperial City – a large royal complex with a rich history. Many parts of the compound were destroyed during the American war, but there has been significant restoration work done.
The Ngo Mon Gate still serves as the main entrance and includes three gates. Only the emperor could walk through the central gate and it is blocked from use even today.
From the top, the emperor oversaw ceremonies and military displays.
There are several omnipresent symbolic objects in Vietnam. They include large, ancient bells and drums. These signify the origin of sound, which brings harmony to mankind. Also, the Chinese symbol for longevity is used ornamentally on buildings.
The Mieu Temple Complex includes 9 huge, beautifully-decorated bronze urns between the temples that are dedicated to the emperors.
The restored galleries are all that remain of Can Chanh Palace. The red columns and doorways with golden carvings are classic.
The Royal Theater is also elegant and is still used today for performances.
Some of the early Nguyen emperors implemented important changes in Vietnam, but the later emperors were puppets for colonial France and had limited impact.
In the countryside surrounding Hue are several imperial tombs. We visited three of them. Each was distinct in design, although there were similar features.
The Mausoleum of Emperor Minh Mang is beautifully set in a serene, lakeside complex. He reigned from 1820-1840. Jeff is standing in front of the temple for worshipping the emperor’s soul; I’m standing in the foreground of the tomb. Each tomb we visited featured a set of stone “guardians” – animal and human.
The tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh, who ruled from 1916-1925, was built on a hill. It was a hot and humid day, making for a taxing climb up the 127 steps to his final resting place. It is the most ornate of the tombs. I really liked the googly-eyed dragon motif.
Emperor Thu Duc’s tomb is set in a sprawling complex that he used during his lifetime as an escape from life at court. He was the longest reigning Nguyen emperor (1847-1883). The honor guard at this tomb was smaller than usual because the emperor was short in stature.
You’re wondering why there is a car photo, yes? In 1963, a Buddhist monk from the pagoda rode from Hue to Saigon in this car. He was the monk who famously self-immolated on the street in an act of defiance against the pro-Catholic (anti-Buddhist) Ngo regime. It’s an eerie relic of a tragic moment.
Hue was a worthy stop in our Vietnam journey. We learned a lot, ate well, and had two days of sunshine, which were appreciated in light of the mostly gloomy weather we’ve had here.
Onwards to Hanoi and Halong Bay!
Shana & Jeff
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