We are definitely not in Kansas anymore. Vietnam is a bit of a shock to the system after the ease of traveling in New Zealand and Australia. Still, it is fabulous! The energy, the chaos, the sense of surprise around every corner. Just crossing the street is an experience! I feel like a second grader as I hold Jeff’s hand to make sure I keep moving – that’s the rule, don’t stop, make eye contact, keep moving. And it works as the scooters and cars pass you by.
We started in Ho Chi Minh City, which pretty much everyone still calls Saigon. We arrived on Christmas and there was a festive atmosphere in the main square with all kinds of vendors selling trinkets and the street food scene in full swing. That square transformed quickly over the five days we were there into the central New Year’s Eve party scene.
Walking through the streets is an effort and you must stay alert. The sidewalks, to the extent they exist, are uneven and filled with potholes, and are not just for walking. They also serve as scooter parking and seating areas for small food stands.
While we’ve seen movies and read books through the years about Vietnam, being here is something else. The War Remnants Museum provided an intense refresher course in the history of the Vietnam War (or the American War as it is known here). Yet another journey through colonialism and empire gone so very wrong. The photos displayed are unsettling, but the information provided is so important.
We stopped by the “signature” Vietnam buildings, including the old colonial style Central Post Office (with Ho Chi Minh’s portrait greeting you):
And the Reunification (or Independence) Palace, the former seat of the South Vietnamese government, and the place the war ended when a North Vietnamese Army tank crashed through the gates on April 30, 1975:
We took a tour out to the Mekong Delta to experience life on the river, stopping at Vinh Trang Pagoda, the largest Buddhist temple in the region, along the way:
We took a boat across the river to some of the islands where we had honey tea (yes, I am holding a screen full of bees), fruit, took a canoe ride, saw coconut candy being made, and had lunch. The women wrapping the candy were highly efficient! But, the most impressive were the woman (and they were mostly woman) rowing tourists down a small creek within the island.
It was a long day, but it gave us a chance to see the countryside a bit, including how families bury their dead on their own land and erect shrines, and to see how the river is a focus for so much small industry.
We visited the Ho Chi Minh City Museum (old and less informative) and the History Museum of Ho Chi Minh City (formerly called the Vietnam History Museum), which was well worth our time as we had no knowledge of Vietnam’s early history prior to stopping in. (Note the confusing names.) It’s a bit overwhelming to try to absorb centuries of history in a short period. We also saw the Jade Pagoda, a particularly impressive pagoda in the center of Saigon.
While we walked through a park we stumbled on a lively game of, for lack of a better term, foot volley. We couldn’t tell what the ball was made of, although it appeared to be bamboo. These guys were going at it despite the heat and humidity and their foot dexterity was amazing.
Of course, the food has been amazing and incredibly cheap. We’re grateful that most restaurants have menus with photos and English translations because without them we’d be lost. We found several stands selling what a helpful local described as Vietnamese pizza – rice paper layered with pork, shrimp, veggies, cheese, quail eggs, and sauces (however you choose) all grilled over an open fire. It was delicious, albeit a bit messy.
Saigon was a great start to our Vietnam adventure. The decorations being set up for New Year’s Eve, which would then carry over to the lunar new year celebrations later in the month (Tet), were so colorful.
Until next time,
Shana & Jeff
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