Having lived in San Sebastian now for more than 4 years, we are embarrassed to admit that, until recently, we had not visited Santa Clara – the tiny island that sits in the entrance to the La Concha Bay. We have intended for some time to swim there, but even though we swam several times in the bay this summer, we still haven’t made the journey. (The swim is less than 1 km depending on which beach you leave from so we would have no problem making it.) On October 28, we finally made our first island visit. The occasion was a guided tour of Hondalea, the newest art installation in San Sebastian by Christina Iglesias – a local artist.
As you’ll see from the photos, Hondalea is a unique artistic concept. It is built into the abandoned lighthouse on Santa Clara and is intended to reflect the peculiar geology of the Basque coast. It takes a place of sanctuary to provide an opportunity to reflect on nature and human interaction with it.
We read about the city’s plans to underwrite the artwork and make it free to visit, other than the cost of getting to the island by the local tourist boat (swimmers can go for free!), and as expected the plan provoked a “polemica” (controversy) over the use of public funds for “art.” Of course, the best way to evaluate controversy is to see it up close.
We met our tour group after a fabulous lunch with friends. It was a 2-hour tour of the island and of the art installation – including the boat ride over and back. (Yes, the “Gilligan’s Island” song came to mind – although that was a 3-hour tour.) Interestingly, hardly any of the locals on the tour had visited the island recently. Thus, Hondalea has already stimulated an increased interest in the island. Here’s a photo from the trip over:
Our guide provided a history of the island and explained the artwork, but ultimately it was up to us to experience and interpret the art for ourselves. I had the mistaken impression that the art incorporated the water’s natural flow around the island. When I learned that the water flowing in and out of the piece was pumped in, I was disappointed. The piece is simple – the water flows in and out like the ocean’s current or waves. It can be mesmerizing and peaceful to contemplate as you stare into the sculpture, which can be viewed from multiple angles and heights:
Thus, the artwork achieves its intended purpose. But one can’t help but think about the cost of the installation and whether the city’s resources could have been used in a more effective way. Hondalea will generate interest in the island and the environmental preservation concepts it is intended to elicit, but is it worth it? The arts are important, and Europe is far better at supporting the arts than the US, but does San Sebastian need a lighthouse with a poured bronze art installation? Maybe yes, maybe no. Who am I to say?
We enjoyed the tour a lot – all in Spanish, of course. It was the perfect way to spend one of the last sunny days of early fall. I’m still contemplating the value question a few weeks later.
Hasta pronto,
Shana & Jeff
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