August 31, 1813: The Day San Sebastian Burned

San Sebastian, like all Spanish cities, has its shares of holidays and festivals. We hope to enjoy as many of them as we can and to learn what makes San Sebastian unique.

This past week, San Sebastian commemorated the day that the city was burned to the ground – except for one street – during the Napoleonic wars. On August 31, 1813, English and Portuguese troops entered the city and set fire to it. The one street that survived is now named “31 de Agosto” – some of our favorite pinxto bars are located there. The city was rebuilt and now, to remember what happened, each year the city reenacts the battle and recalls the efforts made to rebuild the city. 

Jeff wasn’t feeling well on the 31st, so I went with a friend from school (Jo) to check out what was happening that evening. Unlike most “holidays,” all businesses were open during the day.

The battle recreation was quite colorful and noisy. It started with a parade of citizens in traditional dress, included marching bands in historical garb, and soldiers with muskets and cannons.

The soldiers marched through the main boulevard, started the battle with canon and gun shots, and arrived in the city center – where there are remnants of a city wall exist – and staged a full battle. Battles were much slower then – it takes time to reload muskets and canons. But like now, boy were they noisy!

Notice that many of the soldiers wore red; of course, “the red coats are coming” went through my mind. And since there were British soldiers involved, I can only presume they still wore red in 1813.

After the battle, the bands marched through the Old City to Constitution Square where there was more pomp and circumstance. Jo and I found a spot in the doorway of a pinxto bar and enjoyed the music and entire scene with a glass of wine in hand. The various participants needed a drink too:

Later, on Calle 31 de Agosto there was another parade where the street lights were turned off and participants in period dress marched through the street with torches and candles. They ended up in front of the church where various choirs performed and the people joined in singing Basque and Spanish songs.

It was a lovely evening. I only wish Jeff could have enjoyed it with me.

Shana