Fes is considered by many to be the most “authentic” Moroccan city. And while I’m not sure what that means considering the diverse set of cities we visited, it is a very special place. Fes is known as the “cultural and spiritual center” of Morocco because it is ancient (founded in the 8th century), features the oldest continuously functioning institute of higher education – the University of al-Qarawiyyin founded in 857, and its entire medina (old walled city, Fes el Bali) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The medina is labyrinthian, and although it is chaotic and overwhelming, it is a bit calmer than Marrakech because it is one of the world’s largest urban car free zones. We stayed at a beautiful riad just outside the medina that was a tranquil oasis from the hustle and bustle outside the door. The riad was clearly the owner’s passion project and no detail was left in doubt, plus his guests’ comfort was the highest priority.
The choice to spend our first day in Fes with a guide, Mohammed, was validated as he efficiently led us through both old and new Fes, gave us a full history of the city, answered all our questions, and ensured we saw all the highlights.
We started in the newer area, Fes el Jdid, where the Marinid dynasty reestablished Fes as the capital city in 1250, and where the current royal palace is built on the foundations of the Marinid’s royal citadel from 1276.
Of course, the public can’t enter any of the palace sites in Morocco. But we could enjoy Jnan Sbil, a large city garden.
The walls around the medinas are well-maintained in many cities, including Fes, even though their main protective function is obsolete. We entered the old city through Bab Boujloud, aka the Blue Gate.
No detail was too small for Mohammed, who is quite the Renaissance man. We saw one thing we had never seen before – live chickens in small bins waiting for slaughter. We are used to seeing whole sides of beef, etc., but we could not recall ever seeing live chickens in any of the many markets we’ve been to, even in Asia.
We visited Bou Inania Madrasa and Al Attarine Madrasa, both date from the 14th century (Fes’s golden age) and are some of the finest examples of intricate and traditional Moroccan architecture and design but also represent the historical intellectual and cultural significance of Fes, where many students were educated. (The photos are only from Bou Inania.)
What makes Fes exceptional is the number of artisans who are working in the same manner as their ancestors, from wooden crafts, to carpets, to copper pots. The best example of old school techniques is the Chouara Tannery, one of three tanneries still within the city walls despite the strong stench. It is believed that there have been tanneries in Fes since its foundation. The jobs at Chouara are still handed down generationally.
After our day with Mohammed, we enjoyed our time at the Dar Batha Museum of Islamic Arts, which gave us an opportunity to absorb and get more context for the information he had given us. Housed in a converted palace, we especially liked the excellent timeline display of Morocco’s dynasties, but also appreciated the many cultural and scientific artifacts on display. Jeff barely fit through the doors between sections.
Fes is a place to get lost and wander, keeping your eyes and ears open to appreciate everything that’s happening around you.
Still more to come from our Morocco trip,
Shana & Jeff
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